Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
Exfoliants are one of the essential ingredients for healthy skin. There are plenty of different exfoliants, but two well known types AHA’s and BHA’s are worth digging into individually.
Alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs, are a group of naturally occurring acids that exfoliate and brighten the skin, improve texture, and reduce the signs of aging. Exfoliants are incredible for assisting in skin renewal resulting in a smoother and brighter complexion.
What are AHA’s?
AHAs can be derived from the natural acids in foods like milk, sugar cane, and fruit. They’re generally considered the safer exfoliant option for sensitive skin types. They work by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, making it easier to slough them off and reveal fresh, new skin. This process is known as exfoliation, and it's essential for maintaining healthy and radiant-looking skin.
In addition to exfoliating and brightening the skin, AHAs also have a few other benefits. They can help to unclog pores and reduce the appearance of blackheads and whiteheads, and they can also help to improve the skin's overall texture and tone. AHAs are also effective at preventing ingrown hairs and razor bumps and can be used to treat rough and dry skin on areas such as the elbows and knees.
Types of AHA’s
Lactic acid
Glycolic acid
Citric acid
Lactic acid is often a good choice for sensitive skin types. It’s a bit more gentle than glycolic acid and has a larger molecular size, which means it exfoliates more slowly and doesn't penetrate as deeply into the skin. Lactic acid is also a humectant, which means it helps to hydrate the skin and keep it looking plump and supple.
Glycolic acid is also effective at reducing the appearance of age spots, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size of all the AHAs, which allows it to penetrate deep into the skin and stimulate collagen production. Glycolic acid can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin firmness and elasticity.
Citric acid is an exfoliate and antioxidant, so it can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals. It’s a stronger acid than glycolic acid, but has a larger molecule size so it doesn’t penetrate as deeply into the skin, allowing a slower, less reactive exfoliation (1). It’s also derived from citrus fruits!
How to incorporate AHA’s into your routine
AHAs are generally safe for most skin types, but they can cause sensitivity and irritation in some people, especially those with very dry or sensitive skin. I always recommend performing a patch test, especially with exfoliants. Even the most gentle exfoliant could cause an unwanted reaction; be sure to start slowly and work your way up to fully incorporating an exfoliant into your routine.
AHAs can be found in a variety of skincare products, including cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. They are also available in different strengths, from low concentrations that are suitable for daily use to higher concentrations that should only be used once or twice a week. When using AHAs, it's important to start slowly and gradually increase the frequency and concentration to avoid irritation and sensitivity. AHAs can also make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it's essential to wear a broad-spectrum SPF every day to prevent sun damage and premature aging.
In conclusion, alpha hydroxy acids are a group of natural acids that can provide a range of benefits for the skin. They exfoliate, brighten, and hydrate the skin, improve texture and tone, reduce the signs of aging, and prevent ingrown hairs and razor bumps. AHAs are widely available in different skincare products, but it's essential to patch test new products and follow the instructions carefully to avoid irritation and sensitivity. While AHAs are a valuable addition to a skincare routine, they should never be used as a replacement for a comprehensive skincare regimen that includes cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection.
INCI Citric Acid. https://inci.guide/hydroxy-acids/citric-acid