Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient you have likely heard of or already used! We utilize it to increase moisture and support skin healing. Since moisture loss contributes to nearly all skin ailments, hyaluronic acid has become a staple in skincare.

Hyaluronic acid can be used anywhere on the body. It has been studied for its ability to heal wounds post-surgery (1). You can find it in all products, from cleansers to toners, gels, serums, scrubs, and more. 

I love hyaluronic acid because it instantly hydrates the skin leaving an immediately noticeable difference. It’s like drinking electrolytes when you are dehydrated; it is the Pedialyte of skin care ingredients.

While there are two commonly used hyaluronic acid types: topical and injectable filler, today we’ll focus on topical hyaluronic acid and how you can incorporate it into your skin routine.

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide, or a group of sugar molecules bonded together (2). It is naturally occurring in the body. Over half of the hyaluronic acid in our body is present within the skin, and it plays an essential role in the lymphatic and vascular systems (3). Synthetic hyaluronic acid is derived from either animal or vegan plant-based sources. 

How Does It Work?

The clearest sign of aging is the epidermal loss of hyaluronic acid (3). In essence, we can topically use hyaluronic acid to plump and hydrate temporarily. 

Hyaluronic acid is a viscous liquid naturally produced by the body. Throughout our life, we start to lose our natural hyaluronic acid begins to deplete (3). This happens naturally due to aging, sun exposure, diet, and lifestyle. This is why damage prevention, like a high antioxidant diet, sunscreen application, and water intake, is essential to your skin health.

A low molecular weight, hyaluronic acid will penetrate the skin to hydrate and plump. A higher-weight hyaluronic acid will stay in the surface layers leaving a more noticeable instant glow. 


What Are The Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid?

  • Temporary pumping of the skin

  • Decreased appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

  • Can hydrate the deeper layers of skin 

  • Assists the skin in healing


How Can I Add Hyaluronic Acid to My Routine?

Hyaluronic acid can be used daily and pairs well with most skincare ingredients. Use a spray (toner, essence) or a gel-based product for oily or acne-prone skin types. Use a heavier serum or layer a thicker moisturizing lotion on top if you have a dry skin type. 

For sensitive skin, you want to minimize the risk of reaction. I recommend starting with a higher molecular weight hyaluronic acid and slowly introducing it. This allows your skin to get used to the product without penetrating too deeply.

Truly, hyaluronic acid is great for all skin types, from oily to dry, from acne-prone to hyperpigmented; all skin types benefit from hydration. With that said, reactions and allergies can always happen! Some alternatives include glycerin (humectant), beta-glucan (oat polysaccharide), or licorice root. Using a high-weight concentration can prevent the hyaluronic acid from the deeper layers of the skin; this can cause the top layers to become dry and sensitized.

To layer hyaluronic acid, apply it over your actives and under creams or balms. For example, at night, you can use your retinoid, your hyaluronic acid, then once it has dried, apply your moisturizing balm.

As I always recommend, if you have highly sensitive skin or complex skin goals, you should consult your esthetician or dermatologist for customized advice.


 

What Hyaluronic Acid Products Do You Recommend?

Because there are so many hyaluronic acid-containing products on the market, it can be daunting to find one that works for you. Looking at your skin type and skin goals can help you find a product that can specifically benefit you.

I recommend only the products I’ve personally tried or have successfully used with my clients. The Hyaluronic Acid HydroJelly Mask comes in a two-pack with biodegradable packaging. The Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum contains three types of bioavailable hyaluronic acid and barrier-protecting ceramides. The Hyaluronic Acid Lip Booster contains low molecular weight hyaluronic acid to penetrate and hydrate the lips. The added collagen-stimulating peptides (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38) increase lip volume. 


References

  1. Galli, Fabio et al. “Hyaluronic acid to improve healing of surgical incisions in the oral cavity: a pilot multicentre placebo-controlled randomised clinical trial.” European journal of oral implantology vol. 1,3 (2008): 199-206. www.pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20467622/#:~:text=Conclusions%3A%20Hyaluronic%20acid%20placed%20over,hyalulonic%20acid%20in%20dental%20applications.

  2. Walker K, Basehore BM, Goyal A, et al. Hyaluronic Acid. [Updated 2022 Jul 4]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2022 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK482440/

  3. Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253–258. https://doi.org/10.4161/derm.21923. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583886/




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